10. Risotto alla Milanese – Nonna Maria's Cucina Alpina

Saffron and rice is a regal combination– seen in the Spanish paella in the west, through the Middle East, all the way to South Asia, where the most fragrant basmati rice is grown in the foothills of the Himalayas. The golden hue has symbolised wealth–after all, saffron is the world’s most expensive spice by weight. Collected by hand from the crocus flower, the vibrant stigma and styles add an earthy perfume, colour and taste reminiscent of hay drying in the sun.

The Arabs brought rice to Spain and Sicily in the 14th century, and cultivation spread northward from the Kingdom of Naples. Today, Italy is the largest rice producer in Europe. Lombardy’s climate and geography were a perfect match. Pure water flows down from the mountains (see, for example, the San Pellegrino springs near Bergamo). There are plains–the rice paddies are found in the fertile Po Valley. These lowlands are also suited to raising dairy cattle, with Lombardy boasting numerous protected cheeses including Gorgonzola and Taleggio. 

Several rice varieties are used in risotto, from the stickier Arborio to the firm Vialone nano. The longer Carnaroli, a new post-war variety developed by crossing Vialone with other strains, releases a soft starch without collapsing. Some of the best Carnaroli rice are aged, while still unpolished, for a year to a decade in stainless steel silos in order to stabilise the starch. Once dried, it can absorb more liquid (and therefore flavour) without splitting. 

This stands in contrast with Japan, where shin-mai (literally ‘new rice’) is revered for their high sheen, slightly sweet flavour, viscous texture and strong aroma, although it is not recommended for sushi or fried rice due to its high water content. The standard way is to cook rice in plain water–not salted like pasta.

In Japan, where the local religion (Shintoism) tells us that everything has a spirit, we are raised with the belief that not a single grain of rice is to be wasted, as a deity resides in each grain of rice. Historically, rice has been used as currency and holds religious and spiritual significance. Unlike in Southeast Asia, where rice can be harvested twice or even three times per year, rice cultivation has been a challenge on the cooler and mountainous Japanese islands, until new varieties were engineered in the 20th century. Precious rice had been directed to the payment of taxes and distilled into sake, whilst common folk subsisted on hardier grains such as amaranth and millet.

Over in Italy, climate change is impacting rice production, as with other agricultural products such as wine and olive oil. The mountains are receiving far less snow now compared to past decades, which is impacting irrigation practices. Living in Melbourne, it is possible to source buckwheat and Nebbiolo wine, bresaola and alpine-style cheese, all grown and produced in the state of Victoria, even if the flavours and textures are not equal. Risotto rice from northern Italy, however, has no substitute. Could this spell the end of an iconic dish?  

Frog from the marshy rice fields, lake fish, pear and blueberries in Lombardy; Barolo (Piedmont); squid with its ink (Veneto) – although variations of risotto abound across northern Italy, they centre around one or two focal ingredients. Risotto is usually a Primo (first course), but served together with Osso Buco per tradition, Risotto alla Milanese is a one-course meal. It is so nourishing and resourceful to consume gelatinous collagen and other anti-inflammatory compounds in the form of slow-cooked tough cuts of meat and home made bone broth from joints, cartilage and connective tissue.   

Because we were not pairing risotto with hearty bone marrow this day, we added 10g of dried porcini for the umami factor (extraneous to the recipe). The mushrooms were soaked in warm water for 20 minutes, until softened. The water was then added to the risotto stock.

As the grains of rice are enveloped by soft starch, which dissolves and binds the ingredients together, no rinsing or draining are required. Uncovered, some of the cooking liquid evaporates, concentrating the flavour. The rice is not steamed, instead gradually absorbing the stock. The process is time-consuming and demands constant attention. This could be why, at restaurants where the rice may be partly cooked during prep, they started adding cream.

We will take the patient route– toasting the rice in butter to coat each grain (tostatura), adding ladlefuls of stock as it is soaked up. Once you start stirring (mid-way), you must keep going. As the grains rub against each other, they release starch. The grains of rice must stay dense but separate and cooked al dente, with some bite left to them. Once off the heat, mix in butter and cheese to make it creamy (mantecatura). Taste and correct for salt depending on the amount and salt content of your stock, cheese, and butter. 

The finished risotto is quite wet (all’onda, or ‘wavy’), and it is served on a flat plate. Tap the bottom of the plate to smooth the risotto out so that the grains cool equally. If the rice overcooks in the residual heat, they will absorb all the liquid–leaving individual grains too soft but the overall texture too dry.

Growing up, Maria’s youngest daughter Elena (stirring the polenta here) was known to decline an additional serving just to change her mind later. Even here in Australia, we refer to what is left in the pot as ‘Porzione della Elena’ (Elena’s portion).

Risotto alla Milanese recipe

Serves 4

• 750 ml beef stock 

• 100 g cold unsalted butter

• 1 small white onion, chopped finely

• 250 g risotto rice

• 125 ml dry white wine  

• ½ teaspoon saffron threads

• 80 g grated Grana Padano (or Parmigiano) cheese

• Fine sea salt

1. In a medium saucepan, bring the stock to a simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to low to keep the stock at a gentle, steady simmer. 

2. Place the saffron threads in a small bowl and let them bloom in a ladleful of warm stock.

3. In a large, heavy saucepan, heat half of the butter (or substitute lard) over medium heat. Sautée the onion until translucent. 

4. Add the raw, unwashed rice and a pinch of salt and stir until the grains are well coated in butter. Cook, stirring constantly, for 2-3 minutes until the rice starts to smell toasty.

5. Add the wine and let the grains absorb the liquid.

6. Turn up the flame to medium-high and add enough stock to just cover the rice.

7. Gradually begin adding the hot stock by the ladeleful, as the rice absorbs the liquid. Shake the pan but do not stir.

8. After 15 minutes, start stirring with a wooden spoon. Scrape the sides and bottom of the pot clean so that the rice does not stick. Add the saffron water. Stir constantly, adding more stock to keep the rice covered at all times. Repeat the process for another 15 minutes until the rice is creamy but still firm (al dente, as opposed to chalky in the centre). 

9. Remove the risotto from the heat. Add the remaining butter from the fridge plus the cheese, stirring vigorously to make the risotto creamier. Rest for two minutes with the lid on.

10. Taste and correct for salt, stirring after adding any. 

11. Spoon onto flat plates and tap from underneath to flatten out the risotto. Serve immediately.

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