8. Nebbiolo – Nonna Maria's Cucina Alpina

The city of Sondrio (population: 22,000) spreads along the snow-fed Adda River, which runs from La Spedla, the highest point in Lombardy (up in the Alps near the Swiss border), into Lake Como, after joining with the Po River. Along with tourism and banking, wine-making plays an important part in the local economy. Popping the cork is like accessing a concentrated taste of Valtellina's history, geography and the passage of time itself.

The southern slope of the valley is north-facing with an alpine climate, covered in evergreen forest. The hills on the northern side of the valley, on the other hand, have a succession of vineyards. Five viticulture sub-zones that are recognised as producing exceptional wines are Sasella, Grumello, Inferno, Maroggia, and Valgella. 

The jaw-droppingly steep terraces are supported by 2,500 kilometres of dry-stone walls built centuries ago, according to a sign I found by a trekking route. As opposed to fertile flatland, where grapes grow without a struggle and lack character, the “heroic” viticulture, as it is called, is labour intensive as the terrain is not suited to heavy machinery, with at most a funicular running up the hillside. 

Among the native varieties, the most famous is the Nebbiolo. The tannic Nebbiolo grape is best known in the Barolo and Barbaresco from Piedmont, which must be 100% Nebbiolo. The Alpine Nebbiolo (called Chiavennasca here) is less intense compared to, say, a Barolo, but nonetheless dry and tannic. Medium-bodied, it is perfect with cured meat and semi-hard cheese. To match the heavier dishes such as stews, there is the Sforzato (literally, ‘forced’) style, made like Amarone by dehydrating the grapes for about three months after picking. 

In addition to the farming practices, which are by necessity manual and traditional, processing in the cellars is also light-handed, even at the more conventional wineries. Nebbiolo from local winemakers Arpepe and Nino Negri, in particular, can be found in both Japan and Australia.  My personal favourite is Barbacan, whose wines are natural save for a touch of sulphur dioxide. The taste is a juicy and dynamic sampling of what the land bestows, and a genuine reflection of the terroir. They share behind-the-scenes glimpses of the harvest and winemaking process through Tiktok dances as well.

The valley is a distinct microclimate of extremes. It is protected from cold northern winds by the mountain ranges, and in fact a warm scirocco breeze blows in from the lakes, which is the northernmost location in Italy where olive oil is produced– lighter dishes there use the lake fish and these elegant oils. My mother-in-law even has a fig tree on her Sondrio property, which inspired the cheese-stuffed fig recipe below. You can even wrap the fig in prosciutto under the batter!　

As for her mother, Nonna Maria, she prefers to mix boxed rosé with sweetened iced tea. Complete with a cigarette, she epitomises brat girl summer.

Fichi in Pastella recipe

Serves 4 

• 8 ripe figs 

• 120 g gorgonzola or taleggio cheese 

• 200 g Lard, ghee (clarified butter) or your choice of frying oil 

• Fine sea salt or flakes

Batter

• 200 g plain flour 

• 1 tsp baking powder

• 350 ml beer or carbonated water, chilled 

1.  Using a small knife or a metal straw, make a hole in the base of each fig. Cut the cheese into thin sticks and stuff the figs, gently pushing with your finger. 

2. Make the batter by placing the flour and baking powder in a medium bowl. Whisk in enough liquid to reach the consistency of thickened cream. 

3. Heat frying oil in a saucepan, deep enough to fit the figs. 

4. Once the oil reaches 180 degrees celsius, hold each fig by the stem and dip it into the batter. Carefully lower it into the hot oil. Fry in batches to prevent the oil temperature from dropping. Fry for 3-4 minutes until the crust begins to colour. Remove from the oil and drain. 

5. Serve immediately, with a mound of salt for dipping. 

#nebbiolo #valtellina